A short Translation of `Majha Pravas' by Vishnu-bhat Godse

This blog is a shortened, serialized translation of `Majha Pravas' (My Travels) by Vishnu-bhat Godse (1827- 1906).

Godse started his journey from his village Varsai -- in Raigad district, near Mumbai -- in 1857. His destination was Gwalior. The purpose of the journey was to seek fortune: a member of Scindia royal family had organised a `Yagna', where Brahmins would be rewarded generously.

But it was 1857, and Godse walked into the heart of uprising that shook much of the North India. He survived it, to write up, in Marathi, a fascinating account of the journey some 25 years later. It was published in 1907.

Friday, October 22, 2010

16. Jhansi

Things had now settled down in Kalpi; the English had disappeared from North India. We then went to Jhansi. 

Jhansi is a densely populated city. Streets are flat, some of them are even paved. Many skilled people live here. Money-lending is conducted with honesty, financiers are a credible lot. It is often called Pune of the North.

There are several open spaces, and small gardens set therein. There is a big ground in front of the government house. Four check-posts stand in four directions. Some 200 southern Brahmin families live here. Houses have sloping roofs, and not flat mud-roofs (unlike elsewhere in the North) because it rains heavily due to proximity of Vindhya ranges. Groundwater is abundant, every house has its own well. 

Adoption issue

After the death of Jhansi's prince, Gangadhar, the English Resident took over. But he paid no attention to treasury or the royal estates, he only took care of security and order. Lakshmibai, the prince's widow, wanted to visit Prayag, for undergoing head-tonsure (as ordained by Hindu texts). But the Resident denied her permission to travel. 

Lakshmibai had adopted an 11-year-old boy. Around this time, mutiny broke out at the Jhansi cantonment. The Englishmen panicked. The Resident, and a few other Englishmen, called on the Lakshmibai and said to her that the Englishmen were now doomed, so she should take reigns of the state in her hands. Territories under Jhansi state yielded revenue of rupees 25 lakh. The Resident further said: The mutiny is about to start,   please protect our lives. Keep us within the fort.

Lakshmibai replied: When my late husband, ailing, wanted to adopt a son, so as to provide a successor, you said that adoptive son may not succeed to the throne. Later, when I sought permission to travel to Prayag, it wasn't granted. How would I protect you now? (If I did) the native soldiers would turn on me. 

 



Saturday, October 9, 2010

15. Tantya Takes Kalpi

Lucknow 

(After the Muslim King's death) The Queen governed Lucknow. She was a frugal ruler.

Lucknow is an ancient city; once it was a part of Mughal empire. The city hadn't witnessed war or disorder in the last thousand years. But it had to pay tribute to the Sovereign. Never did it have dispute with neighbouring rulers.

It's a big city, river Gomati winds her course through it. There is a lot of greenery, gardens, bridges. The Nawab had got built a special garden for himself, it is said that it had silver cisterns.

When the strife in North India began, some companies of soldiers supported the Queen; she took over the rule.
The English assaulted the city with a big force. But there was this Nepali general, Jang-Bahadur, who sided with the Queen. He had a force of ten thousand; soon he ran off the English. 

The English approached Jang-Bahadur. He was offerred bribe to betray the Queen. Eventually he transferred the loyalty to them. A battle began, it went on for five-six days. The English took the city, the Queen fled. The victors looted the city for several days. Hundreds of men were massacred. It being a big city, some partisans of the royal side kept up the fight in their (respective) burrows. 

Tatntya Takes Kalpi

Kalpi is located on the banks of Yamuna. A fine fort stands there, at the riverbanks. Tantya was in this area about the time Lucknow fell. He ransacked many villages and then marched on Kalpi. Some of the troops joined him, and the English inside the fort were outnumbered. After a brief battle, they fled, but were captured by Topi's army and were put to death. Topi raised ochre flag at the fort.

The surrounding area -- which yielded annual revenue of rupees 54 lakh -- came under Topi's control. He began administering it in earnest, Kalpi was made the headquarters, revenue officers were appointed. 

Sunday, October 3, 2010

14. Sack of Brahmavart

Nanasaheb left Brahmavart with Raosaheb, Balasaheb, and the women of the household. They took some family heirlooms with them. It included the ochre robe which Ramdas had given to King Shivaji, handed down to Peshwas by King Shahu later. Rest all was left, and they set out at sun-down. People saw them leaving, and cried. The scene could be only compared to that of Lord Ram leaving Ayodhya at the beginning of his 14-year exile.

On reaching the river bank, Nanasaheb paid obeisance to Ganga. Mother, you blessed us all these years, and now you have willed that we leave. Saying so, they boarded a barge. Nanasaheb said to the people who had gathered there: Do not follow us further. We have spent some good time together. I will never forget you. Go back home, we will meet again. 

Before the barge set off,  Nanasaheb asked the fishermen -- who were supposed to steer it --  to get down. We would steer it ourselves, he said. So fishermen got off. Barge sailed in the darkness, lit up only by candles. People had lined both the banks of the river. Upon reaching midstream, Nanasaheb had the candles put out. Then he threw the heirlooms into water. When people saw that candles were out, they thought Nanasaheb had sunk the barge, alongwith  its passengers. Wave of grief swept the onlookers.

(But it was only a camouflage. The barge took them to Lucknow, where the ruling Muslim Queen gave them shelter.)

The British attacked Brahmavart on the third day of Nanasaheb's departure.  They killed every native man in sight. British soldiers entered houses and dug up the floors to get buried treasures. Those who were fleeing were looted. The pillage went on for two full days. People became penniless.

It stopped on the third day, when the Government issued a fiat and reestablished order. Those who were involved in the mutiny were arrested and hanged.