A short Translation of `Majha Pravas' by Vishnu-bhat Godse

This blog is a shortened, serialized translation of `Majha Pravas' (My Travels) by Vishnu-bhat Godse (1827- 1906).

Godse started his journey from his village Varsai -- in Raigad district, near Mumbai -- in 1857. His destination was Gwalior. The purpose of the journey was to seek fortune: a member of Scindia royal family had organised a `Yagna', where Brahmins would be rewarded generously.

But it was 1857, and Godse walked into the heart of uprising that shook much of the North India. He survived it, to write up, in Marathi, a fascinating account of the journey some 25 years later. It was published in 1907.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

18. A Queen's Day

A few days later, the weather deteriorated; it rained heavily. Severe cold set in. The beggars in the city thought of seeking warm clothes from the Queen. One evening, when the Ladyship was visiting the Mahalaxmi temple, over a thousand beggars congregated near the southern entrance. When Lakshmibai came out, the beggars created a hullabaloo. The Queen asked, why these people have come here? Lakhmanrao, the secretary, said: These are destitute beggars, and presently it is very cold, so they demand clothing, sheets.

The Queen then directed that every poor person in the city be given a woolen cap, a jacket, and a blanket each, these things be distributed at a gathering of beggars four days hence. The tailors were summoned, and announcement was made across the city. On the fourth day, some four thousand beggars -- men, women and children -- gathered to collect warm clothing. There were a few ordinary poor among them, too.

A Queen's day

The Ladyship never hesitated to spend money. Her valour and generosity were priceless. The people in the Fort, as well as in the palace below were fed well. She wanted her protege to be happy, well-clothed. 

Lakshmibai wrote well; she drafted her own ordinances. She habitually dressed like a man: a pair of trousers, a tunic or a jacket, a topee. She always carried a sword. After her husband's demise, she stopped wearing jewelery; except a couple of bangles and a pearl around the neck. Hair would be tied in a bun.

In the morning, after the bath, she would do pooja, wearing a white sari and a white blouse. There was a basil plant, and a lingam. There would be a recital of Puran, and noblemen would come to offer respects. There were around a hundred and fifty who came to pay court daily; if one of them was absent, she would ask him the next day why you were not there. 

The Queen came to her office around noon. Dressed in man's outfit sometimes, sometimes in woman's. Secretary Lakshmanrao would be there, alongwith seven-eight clerks. This is how she went about her administration.

The Ladyship loved working out. She got up at dawn, to do malla-khamb, followed by an elephant ride, and a nutritious breakfast with milk, before the bath.    

She had her own ways, but never crossed the line. 

On Fridays and Tuesdays she visited the Mahalaxmi temple. 

War was in the offing, preparations were on. 


Wednesday, November 3, 2010

17. Queen Rules in Jhansi

 At night, Garden Sahib came to meet Her Highness Lakshmibai. He was taken to her chamber. The Lady offered him a chair to sit.

Garden Sahib said to her: I do not care what happens to us, but you must protect our women. My wife is a delicate lady; matchless in beauty and wit among the European women in this country. And, she is seven months pregnant. So please keep her at your house. She would wash pots, grind grain, whatever, but do save her life. I say nothing further.

Lakshmibai said: I would protect her as best as I can, worry not. Saying that, she left. Garden Sahib left the palace.

The next morning, English women in the city came to the palace, with the children. Lakshmibai put them up in a vacant quarters, under guard.

The native soldiers became restless around ten and started firing in air. The Jhansi cantonment was small, there were (relatively) fewer Englishmen. Natives killed all of them. They also seized the treasury and the ammunition. The buildings of cantonment were set on fire.

The soldiers then rushed to the palace, and called out to Lakshmibai. The Lady came out and met the native officers. She assured them that they were safe. The officers said to her: You are our mistress (from now on), we would obey your orders. Treasury has twenty-five thousand rupees, and we are battle-ready. 

Lakshmibai had it announced across the town that she was now the ruler. Foundries were started to make new guns, a factory to make gunpowder too was set up. After doing all this,  the Lady moved into the Fort on an auspicious day

Friday, October 22, 2010

16. Jhansi

Things had now settled down in Kalpi; the English had disappeared from North India. We then went to Jhansi. 

Jhansi is a densely populated city. Streets are flat, some of them are even paved. Many skilled people live here. Money-lending is conducted with honesty, financiers are a credible lot. It is often called Pune of the North.

There are several open spaces, and small gardens set therein. There is a big ground in front of the government house. Four check-posts stand in four directions. Some 200 southern Brahmin families live here. Houses have sloping roofs, and not flat mud-roofs (unlike elsewhere in the North) because it rains heavily due to proximity of Vindhya ranges. Groundwater is abundant, every house has its own well. 

Adoption issue

After the death of Jhansi's prince, Gangadhar, the English Resident took over. But he paid no attention to treasury or the royal estates, he only took care of security and order. Lakshmibai, the prince's widow, wanted to visit Prayag, for undergoing head-tonsure (as ordained by Hindu texts). But the Resident denied her permission to travel. 

Lakshmibai had adopted an 11-year-old boy. Around this time, mutiny broke out at the Jhansi cantonment. The Englishmen panicked. The Resident, and a few other Englishmen, called on the Lakshmibai and said to her that the Englishmen were now doomed, so she should take reigns of the state in her hands. Territories under Jhansi state yielded revenue of rupees 25 lakh. The Resident further said: The mutiny is about to start,   please protect our lives. Keep us within the fort.

Lakshmibai replied: When my late husband, ailing, wanted to adopt a son, so as to provide a successor, you said that adoptive son may not succeed to the throne. Later, when I sought permission to travel to Prayag, it wasn't granted. How would I protect you now? (If I did) the native soldiers would turn on me. 

 



Saturday, October 9, 2010

15. Tantya Takes Kalpi

Lucknow 

(After the Muslim King's death) The Queen governed Lucknow. She was a frugal ruler.

Lucknow is an ancient city; once it was a part of Mughal empire. The city hadn't witnessed war or disorder in the last thousand years. But it had to pay tribute to the Sovereign. Never did it have dispute with neighbouring rulers.

It's a big city, river Gomati winds her course through it. There is a lot of greenery, gardens, bridges. The Nawab had got built a special garden for himself, it is said that it had silver cisterns.

When the strife in North India began, some companies of soldiers supported the Queen; she took over the rule.
The English assaulted the city with a big force. But there was this Nepali general, Jang-Bahadur, who sided with the Queen. He had a force of ten thousand; soon he ran off the English. 

The English approached Jang-Bahadur. He was offerred bribe to betray the Queen. Eventually he transferred the loyalty to them. A battle began, it went on for five-six days. The English took the city, the Queen fled. The victors looted the city for several days. Hundreds of men were massacred. It being a big city, some partisans of the royal side kept up the fight in their (respective) burrows. 

Tatntya Takes Kalpi

Kalpi is located on the banks of Yamuna. A fine fort stands there, at the riverbanks. Tantya was in this area about the time Lucknow fell. He ransacked many villages and then marched on Kalpi. Some of the troops joined him, and the English inside the fort were outnumbered. After a brief battle, they fled, but were captured by Topi's army and were put to death. Topi raised ochre flag at the fort.

The surrounding area -- which yielded annual revenue of rupees 54 lakh -- came under Topi's control. He began administering it in earnest, Kalpi was made the headquarters, revenue officers were appointed. 

Sunday, October 3, 2010

14. Sack of Brahmavart

Nanasaheb left Brahmavart with Raosaheb, Balasaheb, and the women of the household. They took some family heirlooms with them. It included the ochre robe which Ramdas had given to King Shivaji, handed down to Peshwas by King Shahu later. Rest all was left, and they set out at sun-down. People saw them leaving, and cried. The scene could be only compared to that of Lord Ram leaving Ayodhya at the beginning of his 14-year exile.

On reaching the river bank, Nanasaheb paid obeisance to Ganga. Mother, you blessed us all these years, and now you have willed that we leave. Saying so, they boarded a barge. Nanasaheb said to the people who had gathered there: Do not follow us further. We have spent some good time together. I will never forget you. Go back home, we will meet again. 

Before the barge set off,  Nanasaheb asked the fishermen -- who were supposed to steer it --  to get down. We would steer it ourselves, he said. So fishermen got off. Barge sailed in the darkness, lit up only by candles. People had lined both the banks of the river. Upon reaching midstream, Nanasaheb had the candles put out. Then he threw the heirlooms into water. When people saw that candles were out, they thought Nanasaheb had sunk the barge, alongwith  its passengers. Wave of grief swept the onlookers.

(But it was only a camouflage. The barge took them to Lucknow, where the ruling Muslim Queen gave them shelter.)

The British attacked Brahmavart on the third day of Nanasaheb's departure.  They killed every native man in sight. British soldiers entered houses and dug up the floors to get buried treasures. Those who were fleeing were looted. The pillage went on for two full days. People became penniless.

It stopped on the third day, when the Government issued a fiat and reestablished order. Those who were involved in the mutiny were arrested and hanged. 

Sunday, September 12, 2010

13. Defeat, Grief, Panic

As native soldiers started fleeing, Balasaheb himself took charge of one of the unmanned cannons. It's gunner had got killed. Balasaheb loosed off a few shots; but English shells soon picked off other gunners. Infantry and cavalry took to heels. 

Nanasaheb, Raosaheb and Balasaheb agreed that the battle was lost. There was no point in dying a dog's death. It was better to run away, regroup armies, and fight again for the victory.

The (surviving) native army then took the road to Brahmavart. The English commander ordered that victory trumpets be blown. The English army pressed on, and seized the place where mutineers had camped. 

Lot of men died on either side. Survivors (among natives) fled to Fatehpur, some went to Brahmavart.

Nanasaheb reached Brahmavart at sun-down. The news of defeat hadn't reached there. Some of the townsfolk met Nanasahib on the outskirts. Seeing the expression on his face, they realized that victory had eluded him. He was greeted, but nothing was spoken. Nanasaheb sighed. Then he said unto the crowd: We embarked on this venture for the sake of Hindus. It has failed. I do not hope to live through this. Goddess Ganges willed so.
 Then he retreated into his palace.

A great confusion ensued. People said: His Highness would soon leave with the army; where do we go? English would surely follow, and massacre us.

People buried the valuables in the earth. Some dumped it into wells. Everybody was now for himself; women and children were left in the lurch. Grief engulfed Brahmavart. 


 

Sunday, September 5, 2010

12. Reverses

(After killing English women and children at Brahmavart) The native soldiers wrote to other mutineers: The enemy's women are clever and scheming; they tried to smuggle a letter out of prison camp. Hence, as soon as you get this missive, kill the English women in your custody. Upon receipt of the letters, English women and children were executed at Delhi, Jhansi, Agra, etc.

The old and the wise among the men said: We were hoping that natives would win, Englishmen would return to their land, and Hindus and Muslims would once again rule. But now that hope has died. For, Vedas do not sanction killing of women. Scriptures say that even a gravest offence by a women can't warrant execution. And yet this vile deed took place: natives wouldn't win now.

A fortnight later, English troops amassed outside Kanpur. Native troops (loyal to the English) marched from Madras and Kolkata. When the news reached Nanasaheb, he dispatched Tantya Topi and Lalpuri Baba Gosavi with army to Kanpur.

Nanasaheb, Raosaheb and Bal-saheb set out for Kanpur later. But there were omens portending calamity: a 
cat crossed their path. A brahmin carrying ashes came upon them; Nanasaheb's horse balked.

They ignored the signs, and full of warrior spirit, reached Kanpur.

A big battle broke out. Artillery of both parties kept up a barrage. Men fought day and night; they didn't stop even for eating. After the dusk, flame throwers were lit, and the fighting continued. Several officers, and countless troops died. This went on for ten-twelve days. Then the tide turned; and providence prevailed over men's efforts. Natives panicked and broke ranks. The English pushed forward with the artillery.